While we had to give up the idea of hiking all the way down into the canyon for this time, we at least wanted to see if we could 'do it', given enough time, the right conditions, and a backcountry permit.
After the easy, rewarding walk along the rim yesterday we chose South Kaibab Trail to hike down part way into the canyon. We arrived at the visitor centre a little after nine this morning. The parking lot was still fairly empty - quite a difference to yesterday, when we were there at noon. We found the shuttle bus that would take us to the South Kaibab trailhead; it's the same bus that takes visitors to the different lookout points if they are unable or unwilling to walk from one to the other. The shuttle system functions very well, makes it easy to get around, and removes most of the car traffic from the roads in the park. The same principle is used for Zion National Park, where cars are prohibited on the main park roads from middle of March until the busy season is over.
We got out at the trailhead and walked only a short distance to the beginning of the trail. What would expect us? We had no clear idea. Admonitions from our reading material, like, 'Trails could be icy. You might need anti-traction devices', went through our heads. How steep would it be? How narrow? Would it be hard to climb up the more than 300m distance in altitude that we lost on the way down?
We had decided on this trail because it will be the one we take down when/if we ever do this. There are several logical turn-around points along the trail for those who only want to hike part of it. Since we wanted to reach Kanab later today, about 300 km away, we chose 'Cedar Ridge' as our destination.
The trail switchbacks along the face of the canyon wall, sometimes as a mere dirt trail, sometimes with a few steps built in, a few times on rocky underground. It was quite cool when we started out, maybe +9 Celsius, and there was indeed a bit of ice left on the first few hundred meters. It was mostly covered in dirt, sand, gravel, and the occasional mule droppings, and posed no problem whatsoever.
This time we were by far not the only hikers: we met people of all ages, some here for just a peek into the belly of the canyon, others with backpacks, obviously planning to spend a night or two at the bottom.
The sheer wall to our right, the abyss to our left, we slowly made our way downward, keeping in mind that we would have to hike back up again. It was easy enough, the grade not very steep, the trail wide enough for two people to pass easily. A sign informed us that if we encountered mules we were to step to the inside of the trail and obey the mule guides' instructions. It didn't take very long before we had to put this into practice - no problem at all. While people ride mules up and down the canyon, this group seemed to be used as pack animals: the two riders each led a mule with a pack saddle.
No more than thirty-five minutes down we came to a sign: the 'oooh and aaah point'. Here, we had a great view of the canyon, and could make out the course of the trail far below us. This was easy walking, and it would have seemed easy to hike down all the way to the river. But then what? Of course we would have to hike back up again - not something to be attempted in a single day, at least not for most people. We passed a sign warning to take it easy, to pay attention to your body's warning signs to detect heat exposure, fatigue, over-extension of one's abilities.
We stopped relatively often to enjoy the amazing view. What a magnificent place! Far, far below we watched other hikers crawl along the path like ants, watched the landscape change, the light change, took it all in.
Not even an hour had passed when we reached 'Cedar Ridge', the point we had chosen as today's destination. Here, we could walk out into the canyon along a ridge, with an even better view.
While there are toilets at the different resting spots there is no water before the bottom of the canyon is reached, so it is very important to carry enough. Dehydration is a huge problem, especially in the summer months when it is so much hotter.
A sign warned of the dangers of being unprepared:
It looks a bit funny, but is most certainly no joke.
We took a nice long break to enjoy the scenery before starting uphill again. Slowly but steadily we re-traced our steps from a couple of hours earlier, and were amazed how fast we gained altitude.
Again two groups of mules passed us, and we watched them march up the switchbacks, surefooted, unperturbed, doing their job. I wonder what it would be like to ride one up or down this trail. Would I be more afraid of heights, sitting even higher above the steep canyon wall, the mule so often walking right along the rim? I imagine I would have nothing to fear: they are used to this, after all.
The wind had picked up and sometimes blew dust into our eyes: erosion at work. Depending on where we were in relation to the sun the wind still made it feel pretty cold, except where the sun had crept around a pillar of stone. Then, it quickly got hot. I can well imagine that water is essential.
We watched the mules, now high above us already, zig-zag up the mountainside.
To our surprise, it took us barely an hour to get back up, the same amount of time as going down, including a short lunch break.
Yes, we should have little trouble doing the whole trail next time - I can only hope that my back won't act up again, and we stay healthy enough to do it. It will be an amazing experience!
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